Bangkok - Poor First Impressions

We had scheduled two days in Bangkok before moving on to Koh Samui. Neither of us having been to Bangkok before, we didn't really know what to expect - except for advice from people to be cautious. We've handled other large crowded cities before, so we weren't really worried.

We had a whole day planned, starting with a visit to the Grand Palace, then onto lunch and one of the many mega malls to stock up before heading to island time.

We get to the Grand Palace ok. The day was hot and sticky, but other than that, the visit was a very interesting experience:

The entire complex was extremely ornate, with most of the buildings guilded in gold leaf, gold paint, real gold plating and mosaic glass. Home to many sacred temples, the site was indeed grand and regal. But it wasn't until we left the palace, that our adventure really started.

We get back to the sidewalk just outside the palace walls. Spent from the heat and humidity, we look for the first way out of area. We approach the first taxi in the taxi line up. We negotiate with the driver to get us back to the hotel for around the same amount as it cost to get us there... around 100 bhat. The driver says ok, but he says for 100 bhat, he will need to make us stop at a couple of stores before we head back to the hotel. Helen jumps into action and practically pushes me out the door.

We try a few cabs down the line and they all tell us the same thing, "Sure, 100 bhat... but we stop here, here and here." We figure these cab drivers prey on the tourists coming out of the palace and take them to shops that will give them a kickback for every rube they drop off in front of their door. Obviously we want no part of this. Helen tries one more cab in the line up. The driver says the same, "Sure, 100 bhat... but we stop..." Helen jumps in, "No stop. Just to hotel." The driver says, "No stop? Ok, 300 bhat." WHAT?? It cost us 90 bhat to get there! Now this joker wants 300 for the return trip??

So now we're pissed and decide to walk away from the area and hail a random cab off the street. We walk several blocks away and flag one down. This cabbie says 200 bhat! We said no way... we know it doesn't even take 100 bhat for that distance, so we keep walking. We keep an eye out for other cabs, but none seem to want to take us for less than 200 bhat. Less than that, they would want to drop us off at certain shops for their kickback.

We keep walking, and keep checking for cabs. We are now well away from the palace. In fact, we are over one third to our destination... about 45mins of walking so far. We flag down another cab. Same thing! 200 bhat! Even though we are closer to the hotel than we were 45mins ago!

So we decide then that we will try to walk the rest of the way, not knowing how long it will actually take us. We walk for another half hour or so and come across some traffic police. Great! They will help us get back to the hotel, or at least get us a cab without getting hustled... or so we thought. As we are asking the officer questions, another traveler overhears our conversation and mentions to us that sometimes these traffic cops work with the cabbies to get them business. In fact, the tuk tuk that the cop was suggesting would quote us even more than the cabs! What?? Now we can't even trust the cops?!

Disheartened, tired and frustrated with all of the hustling we have had to fight through, we commit to walking the rest of the way, since we are now over halfway there, thanks to an untrustworthy lot... not to mention the anxiety of having to wade through throngs of people who, as we have been warned, may pick-pocket, threaten, or outright mug you for all you are worth at that moment. Not a fun afternoon.

We finally reach our hotel as a storm begins. Strong winds and rain work us over as we cross the final street and scamper into the lobby. The journey took us just over two hours. We hole ourselves up for the remainder of evening in our hotel and room where we are safe from anyone else trying to fleece us.

If the cabs would just do the honest thing and take people to where they want to go, based on the running meter, I'm certain that they will make much more in a day than waiting in a taxi line up for the next sucker who will let themselves be taken for a joyride.

Bangkok, you cannot be trusted. Despite your beautiful sites and culture, you made a poor impression on two tourists where were ready to love you. We will not be back.