Wednesday, May 16, 2012

8 1/2... That's About Right.

On Thursday night, we had reservations at 8 1/2 e Mezzo Bombana in Central, one of four full-Michelin star restaurants in Hong Kong. As the website explains, this opus is the brainchild of Umberto Bombana, executive chef from the former Toscana of the HK Ritz Carleton. He has also been coined "The King of the White Truffle." Named after the chef's favourite Fellini film, the restuarant celebrates the soul of Tuscany through the artistry of food and ambience.

We decided to go with the degustation menu, feeling that this would be the best way to experience the chef's expression of his vision. Interestingly enough, our amuse bouche arrived just after our menus. I found this strange at first. In my limited experience, the amuse bouche usually comes just before the first course, after the order had been placed. However, in hindsight, Helen and I both really appreciated having had a taste as we browsed the menu, as opposed to after. Perhaps this IS the way an amuse bouche should be done!

The fixed menu consisted of five courses:

Seared Red Tuna w/ Fennel Pollen
Poached Langostine & Sea Urchin
Burrata Cheese Ravioli
Rack of Lamb (Helen); and Sirloin of Beef (Danny)
Malaga Wild Strawberry & Vanilla Panna Cotta

Overall, the food was quite good. The tuna held onto a note of smokiness while the centre remained cool and fresh. The ravioli was masterfully house-made, well complimenting the tomato sauce; simple and straight-forward. The sirloin stole the show. For an relatively "average" cut of beef, it was better marbled than most rib-eyes or tenderloins; clearly demonstrating the proprietor's committment to sourcing quality ingredients for his patrons.

However, the serving staff, despite their best efforts seemed to lack the ability to deal with an international audience (which a three-Michelin start restaurant would draw). Something was lost in the translation between their descriptions in english and Cantonese. As for the degustation menu itself, for the "King of White Truffles," I failed to find much truffle in any of the dishes, which was probably the biggest disappointment.

As good as the food was, it was simply that: good. Perhaps my expectations were higher for a full-starred restaurant. I did not feel that these dishes were all that unique or exemplary. Nevertheless, Helen and I had a good time despite the evening being far from a perfect 10. So, 8 1/2... yeah, sounds about right.





 

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